Where the Mountains Whisper – Discovering Hwagyesa Temple in Northern Seoul
Sometimes, Seoul overwhelms you. The flashing signs, the traffic, the sounds of a thousand conversations all at once. But then, there's a turn—a quiet bend in the city—and suddenly, you're in a forest. And there, nestled at the foot of Bukhansan Mountain, is Hwagyesa Temple. A place where time moves a little slower and the city’s noise seems to pause, just for a moment.
An Ancient Temple with a Gentle Spirit
Hwagyesa, founded in 1522, is not the most famous temple in Seoul—but that’s exactly why it’s so special. Located in the northern part of the city, in Suyu-dong, Gangbuk-gu, the temple is a favorite of locals, mountain hikers, and international visitors seeking a quieter, more intimate experience.
While Jogyesa is the spiritual heart of downtown Buddhism and Bongeunsa is the grand temple of Gangnam, Hwagyesa feels like a personal discovery. It’s still active, home to monks, spiritual practitioners, and even the occasional curious squirrel.
Here, chanting isn’t amplified through speakers. You hear it as you walk past a courtyard. The incense isn’t for show. It’s the scent of someone’s daily ritual. The moktak, a wooden percussion instrument used in ceremonies, echoes naturally through the mountain air.
Hidden Moments Locals Know
Here’s what most visitors won’t find in a guidebook: if you visit early in the morning, especially around 6 to 7am, you may catch a local tea ceremony performed by one of the resident monks for a small group of regulars. This isn’t a tourist performance. It’s deeply personal. If you're respectful and quiet, sometimes you're even invited to join.
Also, behind the main Buddha Hall, there’s a lesser-known forest path that winds up into the mountains. Locals call it “비밀길 (the secret trail)” because it’s almost invisible from the main walkway. It leads to a small hermitage and an outlook point where you can see the northern skyline of Seoul on clear days. And no, there’s no sign. You just have to find it.
Nearby Finds – From Tofu to Jazz
The area surrounding Hwagyesa is not touristy, and that’s its charm. But there are some gems here that make the trip even more meaningful:
- Baekyang Tofu House (백양순두부) – Just a 7-minute walk down from the temple, this humble spot serves hand-made soft tofu dishes in stone pots. Spicy, comforting, and 100% vegan-friendly. Local hikers line up here after coming down from the mountain.
- Choonsik’s Coffee Room (춘식의 커피방) – Blink and you’ll miss it. This vintage-style café is run by a former literature professor who handwrites poems on your coffee sleeve. It's the kind of place you only find once, and always remember.
- Dream Forest (북서울 꿈의숲) – A short bus ride away, this large park is like a mini Central Park with ponds, trails, and even an art center. Unlike Han River parks, it’s never crowded and offers panoramic views from the observatory.
More Than Just a Visit – A Spiritual Pause
If you’re looking for a real Templestay experience, Hwagyesa offers multi-day meditation retreats. These include Seon (Zen) meditation, daily chanting, 108 prostrations, and sometimes even silent meals. It's not a tourist experience; it’s about learning to be still, even if just for a few hours.
A Korean friend once told me, “People don’t go to Hwagyesa to find answers. They go to stop asking questions for a while.” And after spending a morning there, I understood what she meant.
Getting There (and Escaping the City Without Leaving It)
Take Line 4 to Suyu Station, exit 3, and hop on local bus 02 or 1162. The ride up the mountain is scenic, especially in spring when cherry blossoms line the road. You’ll be dropped off at the foot of the temple stairs. Already, you’ll feel Seoul slipping away behind you.
Final Thoughts
Hwagyesa isn’t famous. But it’s unforgettable. It doesn’t demand your attention like the big sights. It offers you peace if you’re willing to receive it. It’s the kind of place that makes you breathe deeper, walk slower, and think less.
And isn’t that what travel should sometimes be?
🔗 More Info: Templestay at Hwagyesa
📍 Address: 117 Hwagyesa-gil, Gangbuk-gu, Seoul, South Korea
